Thursday, February 4, 2010
Though the windowless, modern dining room has all the charm of an airport lounge, it's perfectly comfortable and more than worth ignoring for the excellent cooking of rising young star Hervé Galidie. He applies his well-reasoned contemporary style to a superb run of dishes. Seared scallops dosed with pepper oil and garnished with grilled Spanish ham, dandelion salad, perfectly sautéed, squid spiked with espelette pepper and sautéed duck with cèpes served on grilled chestnut leaves. The desserts - including roast figs with caramel sauce and a superb palette au chocolat - show that Galidie's talent is truly wide ranging, and the excellent service here makes for a very pleasant night out.
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